Bonjour,
En démontant la traverse de support de boîte j'avais eu la surprise de constater que le précédent proprio avait remplacé les 2 silent-blocs par des cales caoutchouc "maison". J'ai commandé les pièces conformes (reference MOSS AHH7854) et en les recevant je me demande bien comment les faire rentrer dans leurs supports métalliques : le diametre de l'orifice est de 17 mm alors que que la partie la plus étroite des silent bloc mesure 30 mm de diametre ...
Qui aurait la solution ?
Merci
montage silent blocs support de boite de vitesse
Claude,
Il y a 5 silentblocs: 2 entre boite et traverse, et ceux de l'avant de la barre de retenue de la boite, 2 dans l'oeil et un à l'extrémité de la tige. D'aprés la forme des tiens, ils doivent aller dans l'oeil situé juste sous la boite, ils rentrent sans probleme dans l'alésage alu.
Bien cordialement.
Il y a 5 silentblocs: 2 entre boite et traverse, et ceux de l'avant de la barre de retenue de la boite, 2 dans l'oeil et un à l'extrémité de la tige. D'aprés la forme des tiens, ils doivent aller dans l'oeil situé juste sous la boite, ils rentrent sans probleme dans l'alésage alu.
Bien cordialement.
Ci-dessous le lien vers le catalogue MOSS :
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... ortOrder=7
Mon problème est de faire renter les 2 "bushes" N° 29 dans les supports N°35 et 36
Claude
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... ortOrder=7
Mon problème est de faire renter les 2 "bushes" N° 29 dans les supports N°35 et 36
Claude
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mgbphilippe123
Bonsoir,
remplacer le rep 30 par une vis filetée sous tête ou une tige filetée munie d'une rondelle plate large y introduire la AHH7854 coté conique vers l'alésage du suport rep 35 ou 36. Positionner le montage sur le support de l'autre coté faire passer l'extrémité de la tige filetée à travers une douille et une rondelle plate puis venir serrer avec un écrou. Sous l'effet du serrage la AHH7854 se déforme et se met en position grace à la gorge.
A+
Philippe.
remplacer le rep 30 par une vis filetée sous tête ou une tige filetée munie d'une rondelle plate large y introduire la AHH7854 coté conique vers l'alésage du suport rep 35 ou 36. Positionner le montage sur le support de l'autre coté faire passer l'extrémité de la tige filetée à travers une douille et une rondelle plate puis venir serrer avec un écrou. Sous l'effet du serrage la AHH7854 se déforme et se met en position grace à la gorge.
A+
Philippe.
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Renou-Invité
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The following is my recommended procedure for installing the two rubber bushings (Moss # 280-055) on the 1968-on MGB transmission rear mount.
The smaller of the bushings two flanges is 1 1/4" in diameter and about 1/4" thick. The hole through which it must pass is only about 3/4" in diameter. None of my usual brute force and ignorant approaches (i.e. screw driver poking) were of any help when attempting to install these bushings. In fact, more time was spent chasing them across the garage floor, than in concluding any constructive work.
It dawned on me that the problem was similar to installing the windscreen rubber on a Triumph 2000. So I developed a procedure along that line.
First, secure the yoke in a vise, oriented as shown. Tie off one end of a thin cord, in the direction of one end of the yoke (I used the vise base for this). Loop the cord and pull it up through the yoke hole. Pass the loop about the bushing as shown, and place the edge of the bushing flange into the yoke hole. It helps to oblongate the bushing as you do this, with your free hand.
Initially, you should pull the cords almost parallel to the bushing groove. But, as more of the flange begins to enter the hole, you should change your direction of pull downward, until eventually you're pulling straight down. In this manner, you will gradually peel the flange circumference through the hole.
A lubricant, like Armour-All, will make things easier and protect the rubber from chafing. Tying off the cord leaves one hand free to manipulate the bushing, and also to change the pull angle of the cords. Obviously, the wiser you are at choosing your tie-down point, the better this procedure will work.
That's it, you're done then! With more time for the important things, like popping open a can of Tennent's 80-Shilling Ale and toasting the Empire.
The smaller of the bushings two flanges is 1 1/4" in diameter and about 1/4" thick. The hole through which it must pass is only about 3/4" in diameter. None of my usual brute force and ignorant approaches (i.e. screw driver poking) were of any help when attempting to install these bushings. In fact, more time was spent chasing them across the garage floor, than in concluding any constructive work.
It dawned on me that the problem was similar to installing the windscreen rubber on a Triumph 2000. So I developed a procedure along that line.
First, secure the yoke in a vise, oriented as shown. Tie off one end of a thin cord, in the direction of one end of the yoke (I used the vise base for this). Loop the cord and pull it up through the yoke hole. Pass the loop about the bushing as shown, and place the edge of the bushing flange into the yoke hole. It helps to oblongate the bushing as you do this, with your free hand.
Initially, you should pull the cords almost parallel to the bushing groove. But, as more of the flange begins to enter the hole, you should change your direction of pull downward, until eventually you're pulling straight down. In this manner, you will gradually peel the flange circumference through the hole.
A lubricant, like Armour-All, will make things easier and protect the rubber from chafing. Tying off the cord leaves one hand free to manipulate the bushing, and also to change the pull angle of the cords. Obviously, the wiser you are at choosing your tie-down point, the better this procedure will work.
That's it, you're done then! With more time for the important things, like popping open a can of Tennent's 80-Shilling Ale and toasting the Empire.
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